Jo Malone London Peony & Blush Suede Philosophy Pure Grace Donna Karan DKNY Be Delicious Sparkling Apple Ralph Lauren Safari (And although described as blue, they can be tinged from white to pink to deep, almost hyacinth in colour). ", Wood from a resinous South American tree, the oil of which used in perfumery, "Guaiac wood oil is a warm, woody note with balsamic notes and a central smoky feature. Just threw that in because you never know when it might come in useful in Trivial Pursuit, someday). Rich and naturally complex, there are soft, come-hither floral elements to the balsam, as well as sweet vanilla and spicy cinnamon notes; its often used in ambres. Moschino Cheap & Chic, Close your eyes and think of aniseed Or maybe tarragon Licorice, even The herb fennel can be used to add a herbaceous, soft, aromatic spiciness to fragrances. Fresh Love Perfumery isnt the most familiar use of flax (a.k.a. Milk is a warm and long-lasting vegan layering scent with amber, musk, and bergamot. Succulent, juicy, drippingly sweet: mango works wonderfully in summer perfumes in particular, delivering that hint-of-the-tropics perfumers seek to capture in a bottle. Library of Fragrance Frankincense Its not that type of rosewood which perfumers use, with its floral, slightly rose-like odour: thats from the Aniba rosaeodora tree, better known as Brazilian rosewood. Burberry The Beat Patricia de Nicola Vanilla Tonka And are you ready for the explanation of the name? But it also reveals a soft yet surprising bitterness, when you taste it. Register. Chanel. In summer scents, in particular, kiwi adds a refreshing sweetness. The name comes from the Latin, so were told: lavere means to wash, and the Romans perfumed their baths with lavender oil. (This note is also sometimes called American balsam, or even opobalsam.) Cool, dark, green: the leaves and the little black berries from this self-clinging evergreen plant can be steam-distilled and turned into a refreshing green fragrance top note, with just a dash of spiciness. Theres barely a scent out there which doesnt feature a type of jasmine somewhere in its construction but all jasmines arent created equal, and (dare we say it) theres a lot of snobbery about jasmine, with fragrance houses falling over themselves to boast of the priceless quality of their jasmine, There are actually over 200 species of jasmine but two members of the beautiful white-flowered jasmine family are most prized. Geraniums used in colognes, herbal scents, florals and chypre fragrances. Guerlain Terracotta Eau Sous le Vent "There's no household in Mexico where tuberose sprigs aren't set up in vases, perfuming the whole atmosphere like there's no tomorrow. Guerlain Cuir Beluga "Amber provides sophistication and sensuality to a fragrance." Ambergris Its the leaves and the stems which are used in fragrance, giving a slightly bitter note. Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial Sensual, for sure, but again, with a more delicate touch. Cartier Le Must de Cartier Prunus armeniaca) is evoked: pretty, soft and feminine, and a bit floaty (just like the white or pink flowers themselves). Fendi Fan di Fendi It pumps out its fragrance at night, to attract insects. There are a couple of twists on petitgrain: a form known as citronnier is distilled from the leaves of the lemon tree, in Mediterranean areas; as youd imagine, its more yes lemony. LArtisan Parfumeur LEau de LArtisan Penhaligon's Bluebell. Nonetheless, this piquant spicy flower is a cornerstone of many, many Ambre perfumes, adding a delicious, almost nose-tingling brightness, and complementing the floral notes: carnation and rose, in particular, were just made for each other. As it cures in saltwater it becomes gray, hence the name ambergris or gray amber. Need to know: Their perfumes contain concentrates from a variety of plant species, including pineapple, verbena, oakmoss, and apple, as well as woody notes like sandalwood, tonka, and bergamot. According to experts, tea is set to be a key fragrance trend for spring/summer 2015. It's been highly fashionable in fragrances for the past few years: sweet, soft, powdery, suede-like rather like violets, which we tend to be more familiar with as a scent. Shay & Blue English Cherry Blossom. Serge Lutens Santal Majascule La Bouche Rouge creates sustainable perfumes by upcycling ingredients La Bouche Rouge, the French make-up brand known for blending luxury with an eco-conscious mentality, launches its first range of perfumes Sign up to our newsletter (Image credit: La Bouche Rouge) By Mary Cleary published 27 minutes ago Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood Prada LEau Ambre. Jasmine gives a richness and intensity to fragrances: a sweet floral note, but with a dead-sexy muskiness to it. Yves Saint LaurentParisienne. Jo Malone London Vetyver Gardeners cultivate these widely, albeit most successfully inside fruit cages because birds, as well as humans, just love the perfectly-ripened fruit The distilled absolute of the blackcurrant buds and leaves is known as bourgeons de cassis (say it boor-shon da cassee): a light, fruity, woody note with a slightly animalic edge. Cartier LHeure Defendue VII The scented oils obtained by cold-pressing the peel and unlike so many other plant ingredients, the aroma that you get from that process is almost exactly the natural scent of the ripe fruits peel. Oudh (sometimes spelled 'oud') has become a phenomenally popular ingredient, but still divides opinion. (For more about violet leaf, though, which smells green and aquatic, click here.) Youll find heliotrope in many legendary Guerlain fragrances, as well as countless contemporary gourmand scents. LOccitane en Provence Th Vert la Menthe The links are rooted in the tradition of the gantier parfumeurs, a guild of glove-makers in Paris who fashioned gloves for royalty and the aristocracy as far back as the 15th Century. Styrene is one of the 3,000-odd ingredients on the list. Aveda Chakra 6 Intuition And the rest, as they say, is history. Because the Sequoia sempervirens tree is endangered, however through loss of habit and over-logging chances are its a fantasy sequoia. Dior Miss Dior Benzoin gives body to many perfumes (its especially widely-used in ambres) and is sweetly seductive. Creed Love in White Onefine day I will buy a few kilos of real raspberry extract, though, and make my ultimate fruity Tauer. Clarins Eau Dynamisante Guerlain Samsara As you might suspect, theres a touch of damp forest floor to this material, too. (Statista) "Orris is utterly timeless, and emerged through every single perfumery period, bringing unique nobility. ), Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta Pears fragrant bounty doesnt begin and end with its fruits (and subtly powdery blossoms), though. LArtisan Parfumeur Safran Troublant Do you hate it? A little bit birch tar-y, even tarmac-y. Dior Dune How mysterious is that, as a fragrant ingredient? Why allspice? Guerlain Rose Barbare Diesel Loverdose LArtisan Parfumer Poivre Piquant Bracing, uplifting and almost nose-tinglingly spicy, ginger pairs beautifully with vanilla, woody notes and citrus, as well as white flowers like jasmine and neroli. C13? The name neroli comes from a small Italian town near Rome, and a princess who lived there. Serge Lutens Chergui Pandas love it. (Its still widely used in religious rites, across different cultures and has become very widespread in our homes, in the form of burning sticks and joss-sticks.). Perfume Reviews. Serge Lutens Fleur dOranger 19. If any single ingredient can create those effects, its musk. The note has a mystical air to it: in the language of plants, its been linked with prosperity, fidelity, virtue and positivity. Fougre means fern-like, in French, and the category grew from the launch of Houbigants Fougre Royale, in 1882. But chocolates not a piece of cake for perfumers to work with: in the wrong hands it tips right over into ickiness, but in the right hands it further ups the sensuality of florals and of patchouli. Bobbi Brown Bobbis Party Theyre both from the small white flowers that blossom on the bitter orange tree (Citrus aurantia) - which is much more fragrant than the orange tree which produces the fruit for eating. Theres a romantic (if slightly gory) Greek legend woven around hyacinth, actually: according to myth, the flower grew from the blood of Hyacinthus, a youth accidentally killed by Apollo and even today, in Greece, the flower stands for remembrance. 19 Explore which ingredients we select - and avoid. Britney Spears Fantasy Ah, sweet violets. True natural Amber takes millions of years to form. Like quite a few perfume ingredients, this is one thats invaluable in cooking, too: a sprig in a casserole, or a sauce, adds a wonderful aroma. ', Smell benzoin in: 'So far, I have used black pepper only once in my perfumes- together with a bundle of citrus and vetiver. Creed Neroli Sauvage Instead, its the name given to a simple fragrance accord of labdanum, benzoin and vanilla and/or, sometimes, touches of tonka and Peru balsam, which also have a sweet, resinous quality. Floris Limes Kiwi fruit themselves grow on woody vines which produce incredibly dull-looking fruit (greenish-brown, fuzzy) but slice them open and the luscious green flesh (with its corona of black, edible seeds) is revealed. Theyre also often left to produce fruit, which can be infused to extract an intense berry scent. Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy Bergamot orange is the fragrant citrus fruit of the Citrus bergamia, a small evergreen tree which blossoms during the winter. By Kilian Incense Oud Long-stemmed, its pollen-rich (with a somewhat phallic spike inside the sculptural single flower). Its a naturally-occurring chemical, found in many essential oils especially the glorious white flowers (jasmine, orange blossom, neroli), as well as wallflowers, and some citrus fruits. Miller Harris Fleur de Bois Rose essential oil can come in the form of rose otto (also known as attar of roses), or rose aboslute. Alas, thats not going to happen: the dandelion (closely related to the daisy) offers a subtle, bitter-sweet and aromatic note with whispers of citrus and rose nothing, though, that perfumers are falling over themselves to use. Miller Harris La Fume Diptyque Ofresia Thyme gets its name from the Greek word meaning to fumingate and its fragrant use goes back that far: the Greeks used it as a powerful incense in their temples (it was even thought to repel snakes), while the Arab perfumers also used it in their recipes. Sharp, aromatic, refreshing, grapefruit from the peel of the fruit of the Citrus paradise tree - blends well with other citrus ingredients in the overture, or top notes, of summery and uplifting scents, blending well with basil, lavender, cedarwood and ylang-ylang. Neroli (which you can read about under N) is steam-distilled. Kenzo LEau Par Kenzo Clinique Aromatics Elixir Guerlain Spirituelle Double Vanille Guerlain Tonka Impriale Salvatore Ferragamo Signorina In Fiore Fragrances with high levels of ambergris (natural or synthetic) can also smell salty. A 2016 study assessed self-reported health effects from fragrance. Marc Jacobs Daisy, Can a perfume roar? Elizabeth Arden Fifth Avenue Annick Goutal le Mimosa Whatever: it takes kilo upon kilo of flowers to produce the oil around 8,000 hand-picked blooms to produce one millilitre (1 ml) of the absolute which is why its so extraordinarily expensive. Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile (And weve noticed that lately its having a moment in the sun in the form of olive leaf tea, packed with health-giving antioxidants.) Este Lauder Alliage It all began in Ancient Egypt, where incense was first created using precious gums and resins from trees, imported from the Arabian coast and Somalia. Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb. Arum lily, calla lily, Easter lily: three names for one southern African native flower, which has the botanical name of Zantedeschia aethiopica. Guerlain Nahma Thats what youll get when you smell ambrette, an aromatic medicinal plant (musk mallow) which is native to India and used particularly in Ayurvedic medicine. Calvin Klein Beauty You can easily improve your search by specifying the number of letters in the answer. Just one downside to this uplifting fruit: the oil must be used with caution: anything but the teensiest squeeze can prove phototoxic, staining the skin if worn in sunlight. Perfume ingredient chemicals are complex combinations of synthetic and/or natural substances which are added to products to give them a distinctive scent. Tauer Perfumes08 Une Rose Chypre Sun-dried, they make their way into all sorts of foods and have been used in Ambre medicine for over 3,000 years, for its stimulating effect on the digestion. Who could resist rolling around in that? And its used as incense and burned on altars, as a way of communicating with the heavens. Well, recently, the third most abundant metal on earth has made an appearance mostly in mens perfumery, so far to add a cooling, metal edge, for instance in the Blood Concept fragrances, but also Creeds Acier Aluminium, which was inspired (so they put it) by the chain mail worn by medieval knights. Of course its not actual grenadine itself which is made from pomegranate juice, cherry juice and sugar which perfumers use: the grenadine note is generally synthetic. The rise (and rise) of fruity scents has given a new lease of life to this fruit, once reserved for the pudding course and jam-making. The resin produces a scent similar to that of balsam or lavender. By Kilian Bamboo Harmony Ylang ylang has a fruity top like a juicy crunchy pear and a body with an elegant floral softness that gives sensuality to both feminine and masculine fragrances," says Liegent. By Kilian Amber Oud Dior Dolce Vita Serge Lutens Bois de Violette. In perfumery, though, grass delivers a sweet, herbaceous scent maybe not quite like walking past a house where the grass has just been cut, but delivering a gust (or a whisper) of outdoorsy freshness, nonetheless. Donna Karan DKNY Be Delicious Goutal le Mimosa It would be nice to think that spritzing on a scent featuring this delicious, little-known ingredient worked the same way. Britney Spears Believe However, many brands try to sneak in some ingredients that might harm your skin in the long run. These will ban widely-used ingredients . Escentric Molecules Molecule 03. Queen of the May, or the faerie tree, as this ancient, often gnarly tree is also known as, looks thornily off-putting throughout the winter - but then: ker-pow! (Labdanum is today extracted from the leaves using solvents, although the branches can also be boiled.). Lilies have been used in perfumery since ancient times: they were very well-loved in Egypt, as part of a perfumed ointment based on the flowers of 2000 lilies, while the ancient Greeks used Madonna lilies to make a perfume called Susinon. Perfumers have to use ionones with a light touch, though: they can actually desensitise the nose. Serge LutensArabie Once cut, theyre turned frequently to prevent them breaking down too quickly. Versace Versus. Chypres are perfumes initially constructed around an accord of bergamot and floral notes, evolving towards a woody heart note, often consisting of oak moss, patchouli and labdanum. It smells sweet, but not as cloying as hyacinth. Its resinous. Ylang ylang famously clambers round the heart of some of the most beloved fragrances in the world, including the best-known of all: Chanel No. Serge Lutens Chne. There is a wood line. It really is happiness, bottled. Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto, Rich, floral, green, heady: like burying your nose in springtime itself. He echoes our comment above: 'You have to make your leather chord. Demeter Gin & Tonic Creed White Flowers (What you see in a photo is the pod: pop it open and the tiny seeds spill out.) ', Guerlain Chamade Bergamot blends well with other aromatics, which is why it is so popular in fragrance.". (Say it foo-jair, with the j a little soft almost foo-shair.) "It turns a scent into a chypre, into a fougere, into an amber. The top offending perfume products were: JLo Glow Perfume, Axe Phoenix Body Spray, Marc Jacobs Daisy Perfume, Taylor Swift Wonderstruck Perfume, and White Linen Perfume by Este Lauder. Pepper, is metallic and spiky, sharp. ', Amouage Tribute The most common ingredient found in perfume bottles is essential oils. During the Black Death in Europe, it was believed that carrying a ball of ambergris could prevent plague. Nina Ricci Premier Jour This powerful oil can then be played with by perfumers, who use it as an ultra-feminine heart note. Nina Ricci Nina Fantasy Anyone for Naked Lady? The leaves of this flowering plant which can grow to two or three metres are deliciously lemony and fresh when rubbed, and give a cleanness and uplifting freshness to scents. Here'sAndy Tauer on therestrictions on using cinnamon, which he shared withThe Perfume Society - and why he loves to use it, all the same: 'Ah a forbidden fruit, restricted by the EU and IFRA. Thierry Mugler Angel. Harvesting techniques have become somewhat more sophisticated since the time when labdanum was collected from the coats and beards of sheep and goats that grazed on these tough little shrubs! Calvin Klein Escape. Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb, Juicy watermelon has been quenching perfume-lovers thirst for fruity notes a lot, recently, thanks to the trend for fruity-florals. The Bacchanalians tore him apart. 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